Introduction to the Twin Trunk Larch Bonsai
Used Ikea Bean Bags Suncast Alpine Storage Shed This Instant
Monday, November 28, 2011
Thursday, November 24, 2011
How To Grow And Maintain A Bonsai Tree
Shaping and dwarfing are accomplished through a few basic but precise techniques. The small size of the tree and the dwarfing of foliage are maintained through a consistent regimen of pruning of both the leaves and the roots. Various methods must be employed, as each species of tree exhibits different budding behavior. Additionally, some pruning must be done seasonally, as most trees require a dormancy period and do not grow roots or leaves at that time; improper pruning can weaken or kill the tree.
Most species suitable for bonsai can be shaped by wiring. Copper or aluminum wire is wrapped around branches and trunks, holding the branch in place until it eventually lignifies and maintains the desired shape (at which point the wire should be removed). Some species do not lignify strongly, or are already too stiff/brittle to be shaped and are not conducive to wiring, in which case shaping must be accomplished primarily through pruning.
To simulate age and maturity in a bonsai, deadwood features called "jin" and "shari" can be used to good effect with coniferous bonsai, especially: "jin" is created by removing the bark from an entire branch to create a snag of deadwood, while "shari" involves stripping bark from areas of the trunk, simulating natural scarring by limbs being torn free. Care must be taken when employing these techniques, because these areas are prone to infection, and removal of too much bark will result in losing all growth above that area. Also bark must never be removed in a complete ring around the trunk as it contains the phloem and will cut off all nutrient flow above that ring.
Watering
Because of limited space in the confines of a bonsai pot, bonsai care can be quite difficult. The shallow containers limit the expanse of the root system and make proper watering practically an art in itself. While some species can handle periods of relative dryness, others require near-constant moisture. Watering too frequently or allowing the soil to remain soggy can promote fungal infections and "root rot". Sun, heat and wind exposure can quickly dry a bonsai tree to the point of drought, so the soil moisture should be monitored daily and water given copiously when needed. The soil should not be allowed to become "bone dry" even for brief periods. The foliage of some plants cultivated for bonsai, including the common Juniper, do not display signs of drying and damage until long after the damage is done, and may even appear green and healthy despite having an entirely dead root system.
Bonsai should not be allowed to become waterlogged, as this may lead to root rot. Neither should the soil be allowed to dry too completely before rehydration. Watering techniques vary, with some growers preferring to water with a fine rose on a watering can or hose, while others immerse their trees in a water-filled basin to the height of the container lip.
Repotting
Bonsai are generally repotted and root-pored around springtime just before they break dormancy. Bonsai are generally repotted every two years while in development, and less often as they become more mature. This prevents them from becoming pot-bound and encourages the growth of new feeder roots, allowing the tree to absorb moisture more efficiently.
Wiring
Bonsai wiring is one of the most powerful tools to control the shape of the tree. The best time to wire a tree is in spring or fall when there is not as much foliage and the tree will not be too stiff. (Trees become stiff in winter while dormant because the sap pressure of the trunk and branches is much lower.)
To wire the tree, wrap the trunk. Then wrap each branch in spirals of bonsai wire so that the branch may be bent. The tree will then train the branch to grow in the desired direction. Another method of wiring involves attaching weights to the branches, causing them to sag and creating the impression of age.
Generally, wire is left on for one growing season. The tree should not be allowed to outgrow the wire, since this could cause the bark to become bound to the wire, making removal traumatic. When the time comes to remove the wire, it should be cut away in small pieces (rather than winding it off) as this will cause less damage to the foliage.
The thickness of the wire used should be in proportion to the size of the branch larger branches will require lower gauge wire. Two pieces of thinner wire paired together can be used in lieu of heavier wire. It is bad form to let any wires cross; this is most readily accomplished by starting from the base of trunk and working up.
When bending the branches, one should listen and feel for any sign of splitting. When bending a branch near the trunk extra caution should be used, as the branch is generally most brittle near the trunk. It is possible to gradually bend a branch little by little over the course of several months.
When working with the branches, consideration should be given to the style desired.
Tools
Special tools are available for the maintenance of bonsai. The most common tool is the concave cutter, a tool designed to prune flush, without leaving a stub. Other tools include branch bending jacks, wire pliers and shears of different proportions for performing detail and rough shaping. Anodized aluminum or copper wire is used to shape branches and hold them until they take a set.
Fertilization and soil
Opinions about soil mixes and fertilization vary widely among practitioners. Some promote the use of organic fertilizers to augment an essentially inorganic soil mix, while others will use chemical fertilizers freely. Bonsai soils are constructed to optimize drainage [3]. Bonsai soil is primarily a loose, fast-draining mix of components, often a base mixture of coarse sand or gravel, fired clay pellets or expanded shale combined with an organic component such as peat or bark. In Japan, volcanic soils based on clay (akadama, or "red ball" soil, and kanuma, a type of yellow pumice) are preferred.
Containers
Every bonsai pot is equipped with drainage holes to enable the excess water to drain out. Each hole is typically covered with a plastic screen or mesh to prevent soil from escaping. Containers come in a variety of shapes and colors (glazed or unglazed). The ones with straight sides and sharp corners are generally better suited to formally presented plants, while oval or round containers might be used for plants with informal shapes. Most evergreen bonsai are placed in unglazed pots while deciduous trees are planted in glazed pots. It is important that the color of the pot compliments the tree. Bonsai pots are produced all over the world, some are higher quality than others and some are highly collectable such as ancient Chinese or Japanese pots made in highly touted regions with experienced pot makers such as Tokoname, Japan. However, highly collectable pots are not just confined to Asia, European Artists such as Byran Albright and Gordon Duffett produce unique pots which Bonsai artists collect.
Pre-Bonsai materials are often placed in "growing boxes" which are made from scraps of fence board or wood slats. These large boxes allow the roots to grow more freely and increase the vigor of the tree. The second stage after using a grow box is to plant the tree in a "training box" this is often smaller and helps to create a smaller dense root mass which can be more easily moved into a final presentation pot.
Location
Contrary to popular belief, bonsai are not suited for indoor culture, and if kept indoors will most likely die. While certain tropical plants (Ficus, Schefflera, etc.) may flourish indoors, most bonsai are developed from species of shrubs or trees that are adapted to temperate climates (conifers, maples, larch, etc) and require a period of dormancy. Most trees require several hours of direct or slightly filtered sun every day.
Overwintering
Some trees require protection from the elements in winter and the techniques used will depend on how well the tree is adapted to the climate. During overwintering, temperate species are allowed to enter dormancy but care must be taken with deciduous plants to prevent them from breaking dormancy too early. In-ground cold frames, unheated garages, porches, and the like are commonly used, or by mulching the plant in its container up to the depth of the first branch or burying them with the root system below the frost line.
Mallsai
Inexpensive bonsai trees often sold in chain stores and gift shops are derisively referred to as "mallsai" by experienced bonsai growers, and are usually weak or dead trees by the time they are sold. Often these bonsai are mass produced and are rooted in thick clay from a field in China. This clay is very detrimental to the bonsai, as it literally suffocates the roots and promotes root-rot. Very little if any shaping is done on mallsai, and often the foliage is crudely pruned with little finesse to resemble a tree. Due to the conditions under which they are transported and sold, they are often inadequately watered and are kept in poor soil, usually a clump of sphagnum moss or the aforementioned clay with a layer of gravel glued to the top, which leaves them susceptible to both drying and fungal infections. Some "mallsai" can be resuscitated with proper care and immediate repotting, although this is reportedly rare. This top layer of glued-on gravel should be immediately removed once the bonsai is purchased, and the plant should be repotted in a good bonsai soil such as akadama.
Collecting
Bonsai may be developed from material obtained at the local garden center, or from suitable materials collected from the wild or urban landscape. Some regions have plant material that is known for its suitability in form - for example the California Juniper and Sierra Juniper found in the American West, and Bald Cypress found in the swamps of Louisiana and Florida.
Collected trees are highly prized and often exhibit the characteristics of age when they are first harvested from nature. Great care must be taken when collecting, as it is very easy to damage the tree's root system (often irreparably) by digging it up. Potential material must be analyzed carefully to determine whether it can be removed safely. Trees with a shallow or partially exposed root system are ideal candidates for extraction. There is a legal aspect to removing trees, so the enthusiast should take all steps necessary to ensure permission from the owner of the land before attempting to harvest. If not, consider the right of the plant to stay where it is undisturbed.
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Bonsai Tree Care
Bonsai Basic Care
Watering is fundamental to all plant life.Without water a tree will die, in a bone dry bonsai container a tree will die of thirst as little as 48 hours.That is where most new comers make their first mistake, more bonsai are killed through panic over watering than any other causes combined.
When to Water
The first and only rule to learn is this: Water thoroughly but only when a bonsai needs it.
The real question is, how can you tell? The simple answer is healthy roots colonise the entire pot apart from a thin surface layer in some cases.Which means that the soil dries fairly uniformly throughout the pot.
Scratch test Scratch the dry surface to expose the soil immediately below, if the soil just below the surface is clearly wet, your bonsai tree do not need watering yet.If it is damp you can water, if it is dry you must water.
After a few weeks you should be able to judge reasonable accurately just by looking at the surface of the soil.Besides to much scratching away at the surface of the soil will compact the roots, so if you are still unsure of your judgment try the
Stick test Insert a wooden stick into the soil in one corner of the pot, push it ridght to the floor of the pot and leave it there.Withdraw it every day and feel the end.This will tell you how damp the soil is at all levels.
By far the best way to water your Bonsai tree is from above, using a fine rose on a watering can.Using ordinary tap water is fine in most cases unless you are growing a lime hating species such as azaleas which needs an acid soil.If you live in a hard water area they will need regular applications of a soil acidifier such as Miracid.
Nutrition
Bonsai soil is largely inert containing little if nothing of nutritional value to a bonsai tree.What nutrients may exist there are soon washed away with daily watering.This means your bonsai is entirely dependent on you for its nutritional requirements.
Which to Use? There is a bewildering array of plant foods available all of them claiming to be the best for one thing or another.Yet in truth the basic ingredients are all much the same although the proportions may vary.The proportions of the three basic nutrients Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (p) and Potassium (K) are more important than the brand name or type of fertilizers.
Somewhere on the pack of every fertilizer will be the initials NPK followed by three numbers.This indicates the relative proportions of the three basic nutrients.EG.NPK 15-15-15 indicates a balanced feed of medium strength.
Nitrogen (N) is responsible for leaf and stem growth, with too little nitrogen the leaves become pale and the stems are thin and weak and both become susceptible to fungal disease.
Phosphorus (P) takes care of the root development and also helps the ripening of the fruit, the latter is especially important in the case of bonsai which have berries.
Potassium (K) (potash) plays a balancing act with the nitrogen.It hardens off the young growth and protects it against fungal attack and cold damage. Too little potash can result in mottled follage, burning of the leaf margins and premature autumn leaf fall.
What NPK? The proportion of nutrients to use will depend on the time of year.In spring a week balanced is all your bonsai tree will need.EG. 5-5-5.Then as the shoots begin to extend the bonsai tree's nutrient requirements will increase EG. 15-15-15 or there abouts.Towards the end of summer and through early autumn a nitrogen free fertilizer EG.0-10-10 helps to harden off the buds and roots in readiness for winter.The one exception to this rule is the pine family.Pines need low nitrogen diet in spring and early summer, followed by a high nitrogen diet in late summer in order to build buds for next year.
Light and Air
Daylight or good artificial light is essential for plant survival.It is important to understand the difference between sunlight and sunshine.Direct sunlight can be to harsh for many species of bonsai especially through the glass window of a living room.All bonsai trees whether indoor or outdoor will benefit from some degree of dapple shading from the hot summer sun.
If you keep indoor bonsai you should place them near enough to a large window so they receive good light, but not where the sun will shine on them directly.In the case of outdoor bonsai maple, beech and larch are the worst effected by strong sun they will need semi shaded area.At the other end of the spectrum pines will be happy enough to bake away all day long in full sunshine.
Ventilation Make sure there is an air change in your room every hour if necessary a small fan would be useful.Stagnant air breeds mildew and other nasty fungal problems, disrupting the bonsai tree's natural breathing rhythm and generally makes the bonsai look dowdy.
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Which of These Bonsai Types is Perfect For You?
It is useful to know that the word "bonsai" is pronounced "bone-sigh", with "bon" being translated as "tray" and "sai" as tree. A wide range of bonsai types are available and it is important to know that they get better with age!
Bonsai trees all have distinct styles such as informal upright, formal upright, cascade, semi-cascade, literati and raft. Also, they vary in size, ranging from miniature small and medium to average (they can either be small fruit or small flowered). There are still two key types - outdoor or indoor. Regardless, learning about either type will help you maintain healthy happy trees for years to come.
The simplest bonsai trees to grow indoors requiring the same amount of attention as a house plant are the tropical and subtropical trees. Absolute novices may benefit by selecting one of these types. For these trees, the ideal location is place that allows them to absorb both the morning sunlight and afternoon shade. Some trees are able to survive in full sunlight but it is better to play it safe and monitor how your bonsai grows in its location. It's possible to place your indoor bonsai outside in late spring bordering on summer. However, it must be brought inside if temperatures fall below 55 degrees.
The bonsai types most suitable for the novice include Hawaiian umbrella trees, baby jade, and ficus, just to list a few. There are plenty of other varieties, including serissa sago palms, Fukien tea aralias, brush cherry money trees, schefflera gardenias, and bougainvilleas. Elms can easily be adapted to most homes as well. There are two species of outdoor bonsai trees. These are evergreen trees such as pine and junipers and deciduous trees which include elms, maples, and ginkgo trees.
The evergreen bonsai trees look pretty in almost all seasons as they maintain their foliage all through the year. Some of the names in the evergreen variety are azaleas junipers, boxwoods, and most pines. Juniper responds well to the training and is beautiful looking, so it is the favorite of many bonsai lovers. The health of an evergreen bonsai has to be taken care of too and for that the plant needs a rest period or winter dormancy. The symptoms which a plant shows when it is in resting period are a dull green or yellowish tint to the foliage. A situation when the plant is showing these signs and is looking dull should not alarm you unnecessarily as it could be its dormancy period.
Deciduous trees are those trees which lose their leaves in the fall or go into the dormant stage and start re-budding in the spring. They are not suitable for growing as indoors bonsais since they go dormant in winter. These have to be placed carefully in a shed garage or near a cool window sill during winter. It is best not to let them have too much sunlight and water during these months. Fertilizers should be given every few weeks. Bonsais have different varieties such as larch, apricot, hornbeam, ginko, maple, crabapple and elm species. Japenese maple is the most challenging of all the outdoor trees. They have their foliage changing color in spring and the fall, and the colors range from yellow to orange to a beautiful deep red.
All of the outdoor bonsai types should be managed with the utmost care and attention, particularly during the winter season. Ensure they receive adequate protection. Youll have all sorts of outdoor types to choose from, such as the Chinese fringe flower, Chinese elm, Japanese juniper, Japanese red maple, blue moss, cypress star, cypress, and soft touch holly. Bonsai trees are gorgeous miniature trees with a sophistication and work of art all of their own.
Monday, November 7, 2011
Bonsai - Dawn Redwood Intro
Introduction to the newest bonsai- The Dawn Redwood tree. The Dawn Redwood is a conifer that looses it's leaves in the winter. Other species of deciduous conifers include Ginkgo Biloba, Cypress, & Larch.
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